A time to revel in the cool music of Mexico’s Hot Lands

Paul Anastasio & Tina Pilione channel the late Juan Reynoso and his music, Friday, December 8, at the Whirlybird

Paul Anastasio and Tina Pilione /DCross photos

By Dominick Cross

For a long brief time last century, I lived in Houston for nine months.

It was my second time stalled in the cemented monstrosity of cloverleaf and high-arching interstate highways, Texas-tall buildings, crawling strip malls, and, on every suburban corner, gas stations with parasitic fast-food nubs attached.

And not last nor least, there’s also the 3.5 million people spread thick everywhere by a giant rolling pin half the size of Florida’s panhandle.

Everything about big cities fence me in. Not a big fan. And that’s why God made AM radio and kept it alive today: Sanity. Now.

I can’t recall the call letters/numbers of the Houston radio stations I’d tuned into in the early 1990s, but I’d already learned that AM is a good way to get the hyper-local flavor of an area — like local/ethnic music and food — if you’re passing through. (Local radio stations in South Louisiana not included.)

Enter Mexican music on the radio. Houston, we don’t have a problem after all.
I’ve always been a fan of roots and rootsy music, or most any genre stripped down to its unplugged basics, so it was easy to get into Norteno, polka, Tejano, Banda, Mariachi and other styles.

But when I heard a fiddle crying, a guitar nodding in agreement while another gently kept pace, I was especially taken. I can’t say for sure it was Juan Reynoso I’d heard, but it was the Tierra Caliente style.

Still last century but a couple of years later, I’d described the Mexican music to Christine Balfa and Dirk Powell, of Cajun band Balfa Toujours.

They knew. In due time, they gave me a Juan Reynoso cassette

Fast-forward to today (early December 2023) and you’ll have Reynoso aficionados, Paul Anastasio and Tina Pilione, performing Tierra Calinte music, Friday, December 8, 2023, 7 p.m., at the still a funky, under-the-radar venue, The Whirlybird. Tix $10. Go HERE for more info.

Here’s a bio bit on Reynoso from Smithsonian Folkways Recordings: Juan Reynoso Portillo (1912–2007) was a self-taught folk violinist from the Tierra Caliente (Hot Land) region of Mexico. He made his first recordings in the 1940s, gradually gaining notice throughout Mexico. In the 1990s, his recordings began to appear in the United States, which eventually led to an appearance at the Festival of American Fiddle Tunes in 1997. He continued to play at the festival for eight consecutive years.

Anastasio first heard Reynoso at a Fiddle Tunes workshop in 1996 where he himself taught fiddle.

“And it’s almost as if what Juan was playing was, like, the edges of a puzzle piece that fit into all those other styles. I don’t know how else to put it.”

Paul Anastasio

When Anastasio inquired about the music, he was told the same story Reynoso had heard himself at home: ‘It’s an old music that’s going out of style and not too many people play it.’

A mission was born at those words.

Anastasio was determined to help save the traditional music of the Tierra Caliente. And to do so, he immersed himself in the music, taking lessons from the master and his contemporaries.

“I went to the festival and then I stayed for a week after and I started setting up the lessons,” Anastasio said. A bilingual festival-goer handled those issues.

“He probably said something to Juan like, ‘This gringo doesn’t speak any Spanish. He really wants to learn. Can we do lessons?’”

A week of lessons would follow on Reynoso’s turf and Anastasio returned to the States. He then went back to Mexico for seven more weeks of lessons and another lengthier lesson session was forthcoming: three months.

“That’s the longest trip I ever did to take lessons,” Anastasio said.

It was more than worth it. Something about Reynoso’s fiddle playing caught Anastasia’s ear and respect.

“Oh, my god. It’s so great,” said Anastasio. “It’s like it has some things in common with fiddle tunes, some things in common with old jazz—some syncopation and stuff like that. Like traditional jazz.

“It just kind of completed the picture for me,” he said. “It’s like, Oh, my God. All this stuff is put together into this regional style. I flipped.”

Anastasio said he “was into a whole bunch of different styles of music,” which would include bluegrass, old country music, Western Swing, swing and traditional jazz. Those styles can be heard on his resume that includes Asleep at the Wheel, Merle Haggard, Larry Gatlin, and Loretta Lynn.

“And it’s almost as if what Juan was playing was, like, the edges of a puzzle piece that fit into all those other styles,” he said. “I don’t know how else to put it.”

One may wonder if Anastasio has dropped all those other styles of music for Tierre Caliente sound.

“No, not really. This was another style that I was trying to get into my vocabulary,” said Anastasio. “In fact, I went and taught at a camp in the east and I was teaching alongside Buddy Spicher, the great country fiddler/Nashville sessions musician.

“He knew I was doing this Mexican music and he expressed a concern that everything that I play is going to be colored by that Mexican style.

“And I think he was relieved to find out I was still able to play swing, traditional jazz, Western swing as I played it before,” he said. “It’s just another tool in the tool box.”

These days and locally, Anastasio plays with Stop the Clock Cowboy Jazz band.

Paul Anastasio

“But I kept playing all the other stuff as well. It just kind of took over some years of my life to study it, transcribe it and play it,” he said.
Not only did Anastasio learn the Hot Lands music, he also found out Reynoso had some other ideas of his own.

“One of the things I learned from Juan Reynoso was he’d always wanted to be able to play the music in his repertoire with a violin trio,” said Anastasio. “He told me, ‘I’d heard radio and TV orchestras playing three-part harmonies. I’ve always thought if they can do it, why couldn’t we do it with our music?’”

So when Anastasio brought other musicians to Mexico to study the music, they ended up figuring out second parts, the harmony parts.

“And then, as we got more people down there to study, we started doing everything for trio,” he said, adding that Reynoso would play his part and Anastasio would write it down, “best I could. At first, it was just by hand on music manuscript. And then as technology advanced, I was able to do it with the Finale.”

And one of those musicians was Tina Pilione.

Anastasio said when Pilione heard Reynoso’s the music, “she flipped out.” He gave her a recording of his lessons with Juan and other fiddlers he studied with, as well as commercial recordings. “She just liked it. She was attracted to it just as I was.”

Ecos de la Tierra Caliente

“I never did really intend to compose anything new at all,” said Anastasio. “But it just sort of happened.”

And once it did, with Anastasio on fiddle, Elena DeLisle on guitar, and Juan Manuel Barco on bajo sexto, the trio released “Ecos de la Tierra Caliente” (Echoes of the Hot Eartj) New Works in the Styles of Mexico’s Hot Lands in 2021.

Anastasio’s original tunes on the CD, recorded at Ed Littlefield Jr.’s Sage Arts Recording Studio an hour north of Seattle, Washington, came about nearly accidentally.

“When I was studying with Juan, I really didn’t mean to start composing new stuff, new works,” he said. “But I’d been practicing and I’d hear some little lick and I’d say, well, that doesn’t sound like anything that Juan played. Or anything any of the other violinists I studied with played.”

With that, Anastasio began to expand on the songs.

“So I flushed it out and before you know it, I had maybe 60 tunes,” said Anastasio. “When an idea came to me, it was like what Mexican genre is this closest to because Juan and those guys played about a dozen genres.”

They played 6/8 dance music, marches, minuets, waltzes, tangos, boleros, swing, fox trots and other styles.

“The fox trot was a big American influence deep down across the border,” Anastasio said.

Anastasio was going for “a distinctive Tierra Caliente flavor” he said. “That’s what I was trying to capture in the original pieces I wrote.”

To accompany, if not accomplish said “flavor,” Anastasio had in mind a certain way to record the session.

“I didn’t want us to record in separate rooms with headphones. I’d rather have it be more of a live feel, so we actually just sat around some microphones in one room with no headphones and played,” Anastasio said. “How do you play together if you’re in separate rooms?

“It’s a live music thing. That’s the deal. That’s how it’s performed, live. So I said let’s record live as if we were doing a performance, playing for a dance, whatever.”

The recording was done in a few days and when Anastasio worked on the mix, it was discovered that DeLise’s guitar needed a boost so they went “back in and remixed everything” to get it right.

Anastasio, who wrote the liner notes, again went back and recorded harmony parts for most to the recorded songs.

“Then I decided not to use it. I said we’re going to put it out with just a single violin part,” he said. “If you start doing something with three violins and harmony, that’s going to have a great big sound and then the next tune on the CD, it can’t help but sound thin after three violins.”

The songs on ‘Hot Lands’ were named after people Anastasio knows, including his wife, Claudia (“Flor de mi vida”), Reynoso, (“Juan el gauche”), other musicians and relatives.

“I was just trying to make it kind of personal,” said Anastasio.

While Barco plays bajo sexto on the recording, it’s generally not found where Anastasio found the music.

“The bajo sexto is almost never heard down in Tierre Caliente,” said Anastasio. “But I like the sound and I like the blend with the guitar. So I basically talked (Barco) into playing with me on the record.”

Both musicians on the recording have played some Mexican music with Anastasio at one time or another.

“And it seemed like a good little trio,” he said. “I’d known them before we went in the studio to do the recording. They’re just good strong players and they like the music. And they like the music.

“We went in and just cut it,” said Anastasio. “Cut it live.”

The CD project was funded by 4Culture, the Washington State Arts Commission. Ed Littlefield Jr. provided use of his Sage Arts Recording Studio with Erick Jaskowiak and Jordan Cunningham as recording engineers. Claudia Anastasio, CD graphics.

Celtic Bayou Festival

Because there’s more to celebrating St. Patrick’s Day than drinking green beer

Whiskey Bay Rovers perform Saturday, March 17, at the Celtic Bayou Festival

by Dominick Cross

LAFAYETTE, LA. — Just as Christmas is more than receiving gifts, and, likewise, Easter is not just about chocolate bunnies (hollow or solid), so, too, St. Patrick’s Day is way more than green beer and shamrocks.

And to bring the latter point home, there’s the Celtic Bayou Festival that begins Friday, March 17, 2023 — St. Patrick’s Day — and continues through Saturday, March 18, Downtown Lafayette, at The Hideaway on Lee, 407 Lee Avenue.

Celtic Bayou Festival’s mission “is to preserve and promote the Irish culture in Acadiana,” said Sheila Davoren, festival coordinator. “And expose the traditions of it to those who aren’t aware of how to authentically celebrate St. Patrick’s Day.”

The fest kicks off Friday, 6 p.m. with music at 6:30 by The Here and Now, Máirtín de Cógáin, and Dirk Powell, Caleb Clauder and Reeb Willms.

Music line-up for the Celtic Bayou Festival, Friday, March 17

Cover is $10 or a weekend (Friday-Saturday) special of $20. Keep an eye out for Jameson Irish Whiskey drink specials.

Come Saturday, March 18, do know that Lee Avenue will be blocked off from Vermilion to a block past Clinton.

“That’s where all the festivities are going to happen,” said Daveron. “In the old Don’s Seafood Restaurant parking lot we’re putting up a massive tent we’re calling The Guiness Main Stage tent.

“That’ where the main activities and music is going to happen,” she said. “We are going to have music at the Hideaway as well. We have a pub underneath the tent called the Bailey’s Pub.”

Unfortunately, the now famous Bailey’s Irish Pub facade won’t be seen due to the difficulty presented by a parking lot and not the ground.

Regardless, Saturday gets underway with the traditional Pub Crawl. Interested persons meet at the Bailey’s Pub in the big tent at 9 a.m.

The crawl begins at 9:30 a.m. Cost is $10.00 per person and includes discounted drink specials at designated pubs and a T-Shirt for the first 50 to sign-up. Price of drinks are not included in Pub Crawl admission price.

Following a toast or several, the troupe heads to participating establishments in Downtown Lafayette.

KLFY’s Gerald Gruenig will wear a kilt as the Grand Marshall of the festival. The Whiskey Bay Rovers and festival cofounder Tony Daveron will also participate in the crawl.

“So there’s lots of singing and merriment,” said Daveron. “And as Tony (Daveron) says, ’They’ll be having the Craic (Irish for fun/enjoyment/goodtimin’).”

An Irish Blessing, 11:45 a.m., marks the official opening of the festival at the Guinness Main Stage and by noon the music and fun begin on Guinness Main Stage, the Hideaway Celtic stage and the Hideaway Snug and goes until 10 p.m.

The Saturday lineup features Gaulway Ramblers, The Here and Now, Whiskey Bay Rovers, Avoca, Amis duTeche, Drew Landry, Elise Leavy, and The Birch Trees.

“We’re going to have three rotating areas of music,” Daveron said. “We have something for everyone. We’re family friendly.”

Admission Saturday is $15 per person, or a weekend (Friday-Saturday) special of $20; kids 7-12 are $5; 6 and under admitted free.

“We don’t want to travel on St. Patrick’s Day and we want to have fun in our backyard and we realized the only way to do that is start our own thing.”

Sheila Daveron

Along with the music and food vendors, one can expect a Guiness Cook-off, a Bailey’s Bake-off, Redhead, Freckle & Best Dressed competitions, the Tir Na Nog Children’s Tent, Irish dance workshop, a parade featuring the Baton Rouge Caledonian Pipe Band, and Celtic craft vendors.

The Whiskey/VIP Tent will have two Irish Whiskey Tasting events ($20 advance/$25 at door), and an Irish Language Class with Scott Miller which is open to the public.

The Children’s Museum of Acadiana sponsors the Children’s Tent and will include Celtic craft making, face painting, music and even Shamrock Bingo.

Elise Leavy performs Saturday, March 18 at Celtic Bayou Festival

“I think, for us, it’s generational. This is a culture we want the kids to be exposed to,” said Daveron. “We hope that they can keep the tradition alive. That’s a very big thing in the Irish culture.

“In fact, that is actually a motto for the Hibernians,” she said. “The Ancient Order of Hibernians, which is an Irish-American group, their motto is ‘Keep the Tradition Alive.’ And we want to do it in a very respectful way.”

Daveron said in addition to bringing kids to the fete, grandparents, too, are encouraged to attend.

“We encourage the grandparents to come out,” she said. “Sometimes, the grandparents are the ones who are from Ireland and they want their grandchildren to experience the Irish culture and in the correct way.”

Green beer or Lucky Charms cereal doesn’t exactly showcase what the Irish experience is about.

“Unfortunately, some people might have a festival and it’s not embodying the actual celebration of St. Patrick’s Day and the Irish culture,” said Daveron.

The Celtic Bayou Festival is an antidote to misconceived ideas about the Irish and it’s something Daveron takes seriously.

Daveron is a first-generation Irish-American woman whose father was from Ireland. Her mother, also Irish, is from the Bronx and her mother’s parents were from Ireland. And Daveron’s husband, Tony, is also from Ireland.

“So it’s important for us to pass on the culture to our kids,” said Shelia Daveron. “Our kids are very involved in the festival. They’ve been entertainers for the festival in the past with the Irish dancing.

“They’ve also played at the festival,” she said. “It’s important for Tony and I to continue this and pass this on.”

Daveron said her father was a Hibernian, New York Chapter.

“When I first moved down here, one of the things I did around St. Patrick’s Day was I went online and try to see if there was a chapter in Lafayette — and there was,” she said. “They actually help us do this festival.

“The Hibernians are very involved with this festival and I know that that makes my dad proud, although he’s not with us anymore,” Daveron continued. “I know that he would be very proud to hear that I have this close relationship with the Hibernians down here.”

The Gaulway Ramblers perform Saturday, March 18

Even with the help of Hibernians, volunteers are still needed.

“We have been getting people trickling in, but we’d love more volunteers, of course,” said Daveron. “Lafayette is such a festival environment. We have so many amazing festivals and people understand how important it is to have volunteers.”

The Celtic Bayou Festival came about seven years ago as one of those necessity is the mother of invention for Tony and Shelia Daveron, the couple behind the event.

“When Tony and I were first down here, people used ask us — everybody knew Tony as the Irish Guy (who also owns Irish Guy Landscaping) and he played Irish music and they knew I was an Irish dance teacher — and people would come up to us, ‘Hey, you’re Irish. What’s going on for St. Patrick’s Day?’

“And we were like, ‘Nothing.’ There’s absolutely nothing. If you want to see St. Patrick’s Day, let’s go to New Orleans or to the parade in Baton Rouge or Metairie. Metairie has a huge St. Patrick’s Day parade.’

“And so we would leave town, not because we wanted to, but also because we were getting gigs,” she said. “Tony was getting gigs in New Orleans and my dancers (Ryan School of Irish Dance) were getting gigs in Baton Rouge.

“So we were constantly drawn out of town for St. Patrick’s Day,” she said.

After a while, the couple’s respective schedules and traveling wore thin on a day they should be celebrating.

“We don’t want to travel on St. Patrick’s Day and we want to have fun in our backyard and we realized the only way to do that is start our own thing,” Sheila Daveron said. “It was a win-win for everybody. We were expanding the exposure of the culture and we were getting to celebrate in our backyard.”

Celtic Bayou Festival schedule for Saturday, March 18, 2023