A time to revel in the cool music of Mexico’s Hot Lands

Paul Anastasio & Tina Pilione channel the late Juan Reynoso and his music, Friday, December 8, at the Whirlybird

Paul Anastasio and Tina Pilione /DCross photos

By Dominick Cross

For a long brief time last century, I lived in Houston for nine months.

It was my second time stalled in the cemented monstrosity of cloverleaf and high-arching interstate highways, Texas-tall buildings, crawling strip malls, and, on every suburban corner, gas stations with parasitic fast-food nubs attached.

And not last nor least, there’s also the 3.5 million people spread thick everywhere by a giant rolling pin half the size of Florida’s panhandle.

Everything about big cities fence me in. Not a big fan. And that’s why God made AM radio and kept it alive today: Sanity. Now.

I can’t recall the call letters/numbers of the Houston radio stations I’d tuned into in the early 1990s, but I’d already learned that AM is a good way to get the hyper-local flavor of an area — like local/ethnic music and food — if you’re passing through. (Local radio stations in South Louisiana not included.)

Enter Mexican music on the radio. Houston, we don’t have a problem after all.
I’ve always been a fan of roots and rootsy music, or most any genre stripped down to its unplugged basics, so it was easy to get into Norteno, polka, Tejano, Banda, Mariachi and other styles.

But when I heard a fiddle crying, a guitar nodding in agreement while another gently kept pace, I was especially taken. I can’t say for sure it was Juan Reynoso I’d heard, but it was the Tierra Caliente style.

Still last century but a couple of years later, I’d described the Mexican music to Christine Balfa and Dirk Powell, of Cajun band Balfa Toujours.

They knew. In due time, they gave me a Juan Reynoso cassette

Fast-forward to today (early December 2023) and you’ll have Reynoso aficionados, Paul Anastasio and Tina Pilione, performing Tierra Calinte music, Friday, December 8, 2023, 7 p.m., at the still a funky, under-the-radar venue, The Whirlybird. Tix $10. Go HERE for more info.

Here’s a bio bit on Reynoso from Smithsonian Folkways Recordings: Juan Reynoso Portillo (1912–2007) was a self-taught folk violinist from the Tierra Caliente (Hot Land) region of Mexico. He made his first recordings in the 1940s, gradually gaining notice throughout Mexico. In the 1990s, his recordings began to appear in the United States, which eventually led to an appearance at the Festival of American Fiddle Tunes in 1997. He continued to play at the festival for eight consecutive years.

Anastasio first heard Reynoso at a Fiddle Tunes workshop in 1996 where he himself taught fiddle.

“And it’s almost as if what Juan was playing was, like, the edges of a puzzle piece that fit into all those other styles. I don’t know how else to put it.”

Paul Anastasio

When Anastasio inquired about the music, he was told the same story Reynoso had heard himself at home: ‘It’s an old music that’s going out of style and not too many people play it.’

A mission was born at those words.

Anastasio was determined to help save the traditional music of the Tierra Caliente. And to do so, he immersed himself in the music, taking lessons from the master and his contemporaries.

“I went to the festival and then I stayed for a week after and I started setting up the lessons,” Anastasio said. A bilingual festival-goer handled those issues.

“He probably said something to Juan like, ‘This gringo doesn’t speak any Spanish. He really wants to learn. Can we do lessons?’”

A week of lessons would follow on Reynoso’s turf and Anastasio returned to the States. He then went back to Mexico for seven more weeks of lessons and another lengthier lesson session was forthcoming: three months.

“That’s the longest trip I ever did to take lessons,” Anastasio said.

It was more than worth it. Something about Reynoso’s fiddle playing caught Anastasia’s ear and respect.

“Oh, my god. It’s so great,” said Anastasio. “It’s like it has some things in common with fiddle tunes, some things in common with old jazz—some syncopation and stuff like that. Like traditional jazz.

“It just kind of completed the picture for me,” he said. “It’s like, Oh, my God. All this stuff is put together into this regional style. I flipped.”

Anastasio said he “was into a whole bunch of different styles of music,” which would include bluegrass, old country music, Western Swing, swing and traditional jazz. Those styles can be heard on his resume that includes Asleep at the Wheel, Merle Haggard, Larry Gatlin, and Loretta Lynn.

“And it’s almost as if what Juan was playing was, like, the edges of a puzzle piece that fit into all those other styles,” he said. “I don’t know how else to put it.”

One may wonder if Anastasio has dropped all those other styles of music for Tierre Caliente sound.

“No, not really. This was another style that I was trying to get into my vocabulary,” said Anastasio. “In fact, I went and taught at a camp in the east and I was teaching alongside Buddy Spicher, the great country fiddler/Nashville sessions musician.

“He knew I was doing this Mexican music and he expressed a concern that everything that I play is going to be colored by that Mexican style.

“And I think he was relieved to find out I was still able to play swing, traditional jazz, Western swing as I played it before,” he said. “It’s just another tool in the tool box.”

These days and locally, Anastasio plays with Stop the Clock Cowboy Jazz band.

Paul Anastasio

“But I kept playing all the other stuff as well. It just kind of took over some years of my life to study it, transcribe it and play it,” he said.
Not only did Anastasio learn the Hot Lands music, he also found out Reynoso had some other ideas of his own.

“One of the things I learned from Juan Reynoso was he’d always wanted to be able to play the music in his repertoire with a violin trio,” said Anastasio. “He told me, ‘I’d heard radio and TV orchestras playing three-part harmonies. I’ve always thought if they can do it, why couldn’t we do it with our music?’”

So when Anastasio brought other musicians to Mexico to study the music, they ended up figuring out second parts, the harmony parts.

“And then, as we got more people down there to study, we started doing everything for trio,” he said, adding that Reynoso would play his part and Anastasio would write it down, “best I could. At first, it was just by hand on music manuscript. And then as technology advanced, I was able to do it with the Finale.”

And one of those musicians was Tina Pilione.

Anastasio said when Pilione heard Reynoso’s the music, “she flipped out.” He gave her a recording of his lessons with Juan and other fiddlers he studied with, as well as commercial recordings. “She just liked it. She was attracted to it just as I was.”

Ecos de la Tierra Caliente

“I never did really intend to compose anything new at all,” said Anastasio. “But it just sort of happened.”

And once it did, with Anastasio on fiddle, Elena DeLisle on guitar, and Juan Manuel Barco on bajo sexto, the trio released “Ecos de la Tierra Caliente” (Echoes of the Hot Eartj) New Works in the Styles of Mexico’s Hot Lands in 2021.

Anastasio’s original tunes on the CD, recorded at Ed Littlefield Jr.’s Sage Arts Recording Studio an hour north of Seattle, Washington, came about nearly accidentally.

“When I was studying with Juan, I really didn’t mean to start composing new stuff, new works,” he said. “But I’d been practicing and I’d hear some little lick and I’d say, well, that doesn’t sound like anything that Juan played. Or anything any of the other violinists I studied with played.”

With that, Anastasio began to expand on the songs.

“So I flushed it out and before you know it, I had maybe 60 tunes,” said Anastasio. “When an idea came to me, it was like what Mexican genre is this closest to because Juan and those guys played about a dozen genres.”

They played 6/8 dance music, marches, minuets, waltzes, tangos, boleros, swing, fox trots and other styles.

“The fox trot was a big American influence deep down across the border,” Anastasio said.

Anastasio was going for “a distinctive Tierra Caliente flavor” he said. “That’s what I was trying to capture in the original pieces I wrote.”

To accompany, if not accomplish said “flavor,” Anastasio had in mind a certain way to record the session.

“I didn’t want us to record in separate rooms with headphones. I’d rather have it be more of a live feel, so we actually just sat around some microphones in one room with no headphones and played,” Anastasio said. “How do you play together if you’re in separate rooms?

“It’s a live music thing. That’s the deal. That’s how it’s performed, live. So I said let’s record live as if we were doing a performance, playing for a dance, whatever.”

The recording was done in a few days and when Anastasio worked on the mix, it was discovered that DeLise’s guitar needed a boost so they went “back in and remixed everything” to get it right.

Anastasio, who wrote the liner notes, again went back and recorded harmony parts for most to the recorded songs.

“Then I decided not to use it. I said we’re going to put it out with just a single violin part,” he said. “If you start doing something with three violins and harmony, that’s going to have a great big sound and then the next tune on the CD, it can’t help but sound thin after three violins.”

The songs on ‘Hot Lands’ were named after people Anastasio knows, including his wife, Claudia (“Flor de mi vida”), Reynoso, (“Juan el gauche”), other musicians and relatives.

“I was just trying to make it kind of personal,” said Anastasio.

While Barco plays bajo sexto on the recording, it’s generally not found where Anastasio found the music.

“The bajo sexto is almost never heard down in Tierre Caliente,” said Anastasio. “But I like the sound and I like the blend with the guitar. So I basically talked (Barco) into playing with me on the record.”

Both musicians on the recording have played some Mexican music with Anastasio at one time or another.

“And it seemed like a good little trio,” he said. “I’d known them before we went in the studio to do the recording. They’re just good strong players and they like the music. And they like the music.

“We went in and just cut it,” said Anastasio. “Cut it live.”

The CD project was funded by 4Culture, the Washington State Arts Commission. Ed Littlefield Jr. provided use of his Sage Arts Recording Studio with Erick Jaskowiak and Jordan Cunningham as recording engineers. Claudia Anastasio, CD graphics.

At long last, Festivals Acadiens et Creoles returns live and in-person under the great oaks of Girard Park

The late Courtney Granger will be honored Saturday, March 19, 2022, 1 p.m. on Scène Ma Louisiane.
DCross photo

By DOMINICK CROSS

LAFAYETTE — In this much needed pause between calamities — a waning pandemic and the possibility of WWIII — make the best of the opportunity to indulge in Festivals Acadiens et Creoles, this weekend (March 18-20, 2022) in Girard Park.

The springtime version of the festival that’s usually held in the fall marks the 48th running of the music, food, arts and crafts extravaganza celebrating the Cajun and Creole cultures. One doesn’t have to go back in history to recall that COVID-19 put a halt to life as we knew it this time of year in 2020, and the virus kept most of us off-balance through 2022.

Virtual festivals became the rule of thumb everywhere and got us by, like decaf coffee, until the real deal that’s about to go down in two days and upcoming months. So, bring on the caffeine, the great outdoors, dancing shoes and an appetite for food, fun and frolic in all of the usual ways. Almost.

“We’re celebrating finally getting back together again, live in the park,” said Barry Ancelet, president of the board of Festivals Acadiens et Creoles. “We want people to please be responsible. Let’s not get carried away, careless at this point to undo the good things that are happening.

“Hopefully, as many people as possible will be vaccinated and just be responsible in how we gather. If anybody feels sick or symptomatic of anything, really, not just COVID, but anything, you know, they’ll stay home.

“Let’s just be safe. Let’s be smart,” he said. “If you’re coughing or running a fever, stay home.”

Festivals Acadiens et Creoles will again return to its normal time in October — yep, we’re getting a two-for-one this year — sans hurricane, pandemic or another world war.

Ancelet said that the original event that became this festival was held in the spring in Blackham Coliseum. But there are no plans to return to this time of year on a regular basis.

“We’re going to have the festival in October,” Ancelet said. “This spring festival is to make up for the one we didn’t have last October. In October, we’re still dealing with hurricane season, but I think it’s become our home, become our time.”

While bad weather may be an issue, it should take place when we’re all tucked away for the night. As of Wednesday, there’s “the chance for some severe weather as the front moves through, which is expected to be in the early morning hours of Friday,” according to KATC Weather, noting that the weekend outlook is good.

Music to your ears

The festivals’ line-up includes the usual Grammy-noms and Grammy winners, standard bearers of years past, envelope pushers of the present, and new bands with familiar names.

There is a tribute to the late Courtney Granger, Saturday, March 19, 2022, 1 p.m., on Scène Ma Louisiane. Granger, who left us way too soon at 39 in September 2021 , played Cajun fiddle and Cajun sang with The Pine Leaf Boys and Balfa Toujours. He sat in with everybody and would make the hair on your neck stand up knocking off a country crooner classic. Granger released Beneath Still Waters in 2016 and if you order it now, you should have it in your collection by next week.

Over the weekend, there’s the golden opportunity to listen and dance to Sheryl Cormier & Cajun Sound, Chubby Carrier & the Bayou Swamp Band, Steve Riley & the Mamou Playboys, Wayne Singleton & Same Ol’ 2 Step, Roddie Romero and the Hub City All-Stars, Geno Delafose & French Rockin’ Boogie, Bonsoir, Catin, Curley Taylor & Zydeco Trouble, Balfa Toujours, Joe Hall and the Louisiana Cane Cutters, Feufollet, Savoy Family Band, Cedrick Watson & Bijou Creole, Riley Family Band, The Potluck Band, Jesse Lege, Lil’ Nathan & the Zydeco Big Timers, Jourdan Thibodeaux et les Rodailleurs, Wayne Toups & ZydeCajun.

MUSIC SCHEDULE HERE

Chris Ardoin and NuStep Zydeco, opening night, Friday, March 18. DCross photo

The Bayou Food Festival will give you a taste of the Cajun and Creole cultures, and the Louisiana Crafts Fair artists and craftspeople will have their wares to marvel over and purchase.

Looking ahead

Ancelet said the board will meet in early April to plan the fall festival, in which the week of will coincide with an ethnomusicology conference in Lafayette.

“We’ve got some interesting plans for the next one,” he said. “None of this is in stone, but what we’re discussing right now is celebrating Louisiana as an international Francophone crossroads, examining the connections Louisiana has to the rest of the French speaking world.

“Part of that is going along with the likelihood that we’re going to have a major, international Francophone Ethnomusicology Conference in Lafayette the week of the festival in October,” Ancelet said, adding, “all of this is in the planning stages, but this is what we’re shooting for.”

Look for scholars and performers from the Francophone areas “that we’re examining to see the connections,” said Ancelet. “Not only to ponder them, but hear them.”

Joshua Clegg Caffery, director of the Center for Louisiana Studies at University of Louisiana-Lafayette, and Ancelet have been is discussion with Roger Mason, musician/ethnomusicologist who worked with Claudie Marcel-Dubois, the French ethnomusicologist about the conference.

A similar ethnomusicology conference was held over Zoom last year.

Who knew?

As it happened, Mason had a major impact on Ancelet’s life during his collegiate years, and, as it so happens, anyone who has ever enjoyed Festival Acadiens et Creoles.

Mason came to Louisiana in the early 1970s “and met with and learned from and recorded with the Balfa Brothers, Nathan Abshire, the Ardoins — a lot of the founding members of that generation — so he’s very well connected and a long-time, not only fan of, but very knowledgable of Cajun music and zydeco.”

While in Nice, France, when Ancelet was on his academic year abroad in 1972-73, Mason was playing “Crowley Two-Step” in a coffee shop, “And it changed my life,” said Ancelet.

Ancelet introduced himself and said he was from Louisiana and that the song eased his homesickness.

“And he said, ‘You must know all of the people I learned from, Dewey Balfa, Nathan Abshire…,’ and I said, ‘I don’t know any of those people, but I need to know who they are.’”

Roddie Romero & the Hub City All Stars, Saturday, 3:45 pm, Scène Ma Louisiane. DCross photo

Mason told Ancelet that when he gets back home, go to Basile, get directions to Dewey Balfa’s house and introduce himself. So, in the summer of 1973, he knocked on Balfa’s door.

“I said, ‘Are you Dewey Balfa?’ And he said, ‘Yeah, I am.’ I said, ‘I’m Barry Ancelet and I’m from here and I was in France and I met Roger Mason,” recalled Ancelet, who said in his nervousness, his response got faster and faster before Balfa urged him to slow down and invited him inside.

“I went in and that’s how I got involved in all of this,” Ancelet said. “And it was in part due to Roger Mason.”

And nearly 50 years later, here we all are.

Festivals Acadiens et Creoles a no-go at park; pandemic pushes fete to Plan B and into the virtual world

By Dominick Cross

You probably saw it coming.

“We’re not going to hold an open, public event in Girard Park as we have in the past,” said Barry Ancelet. “We’re not going to do that this year.”

Festivals Acadiens et Creoles board president, Barry Ancelet (left), sits in with Balfa Toujours at Girard Park.
-DCross photo

And with that, Ancelet, president of the board of Festivals Acadiens et Creoles, confirmed the fears of many on a stormy Thursday, June 25, 2020, as the coronavirus/COVID-19 pandemic continued to rattle and spike in the Pelican State and across the country.

However, that’s not to say that the 40th celebration of all things Cajun and Creole, set for October 9-11 in Girard Park, is a wash. Call it Plan B.

“We’re exploring ways to have musical performances available virtually, and in very, very closed, limited context,” Ancelet said. “We want to support the musicians and we want to support the food vendors, so we’re exploring ways that we could do that while without putting large crowds together.”

Ancelet said he turned to folks at Festival International de Louisiane, who came up with a plan to salvage its annual April event online in just a matter of weeks.

“Festival International did a really good job of pioneering some ideas and they’re eager to work with us, to help us conceptualize things to do and we won’t vanish for a whole year,” said Ancelet.

Three locations have been scoped out for live streaming performances. In addition, though not confirmed, Ancelet is working with KRVS 88.7 FM, and others to stream the festival on the Internet, radio and other outlets.

“We’re also going to feature historic performances from our vast archives,” he said. Chris Segura, archivist at the Center for Louisiana Studies, is working on “identifying some memorable moments.”

Corey Ledet and His Zydeco Band. -DCross photo

So the show will go on, but in this case, the mantra is more of a mission.

“We are keenly mindful that the musicians and the restaurant people have been among the hardest hit by this economic shutdown,” said Ancelet. “So we’re desperate to do something for them, not to mention for all the other reasons we’d ordinarily do it. But especially in this case.

“We feel like we’re balancing social, cultural and economic concerns,” he said.
Securing bands for the Plan B concept should not be an issue.

“Our festival is almost exclusively bands from driving distance,” Ancelet said. “We’re not going to be able to have as many bands, but we’re going to try and involve as many bands as we can, and, who are willing to.”

In a way, culling the line-up may not be as difficult as one may think, based on a suggestion from a bandleader, according to Ancelet.

“He said, ‘Hey, man. If y’all got to cut some, prioritize the bands that are composed of people for whom gigging is a primary source of income,’” said Ancelet. “The musicians’ community has been absolutely remarkable in the sense of cooperation and support and thinking realistically about this.

“It shows a healthy sense of solidarity.”

Another aspect of Plan B concerns the food vendors. Think the food truck concept.

“And that’s the way the Food Festival looked and worked already, except they were all bundled together,” Ancelet said. “If we figure out a way to spread them apart and associate them with the venues that we’re exploring to do it, something will work. We’re going to be able to help out.”

And then there’s the festival goers.

Jon Bertrand, Pine Leaf Boys. -DCross photo

“The other aspect of this, the festival’s fans, the attendees, we’ve been all weathering this difficult period as well and everybody deserves an opportunity to celebrate, if we can figure out a way to celebrate in a responsible way,” said Ancelet.

Simply cutting and running was an option, too. In theory, anyway.

“The easiest thing for us to have done would be to say, ‘Hey, you know what? Pull the plug. Never mind. We’re not going to lose any money. We’ll be ok. We’ll just survive it until next year,’” Ancelet said. “But we don’t want to do that.

“We feel responsible. We feel like we owe it to the musicians, the restaurants and the fans to see if we can figure something out,” he said.

And while a second wave of the pandemic is expected in the fall, many states, our’s included, haven’t quite dealt with the first wave and the one-time flattened-ish virus infection curve is expanding.

It seems that the premature rush to return to normal at the behest of pandering politicians and ill-informed business owners, coupled with careless people tricks – like not wearing a mask in public and ignoring social distancing guidelines – have contributed to the unfortunate and precarious situation.

So much so that on June 22, Louisiana Governor John Bell Edwards announced the state will not move to Phase III of reopening for 28 more days because of the climbing cases of infections and hospitalizations.

“It would be callous and irresponsible of us to proceed as though nothing was wrong,” said Ancelet. “Last thing I would want is for a couple of weeks after the festival, if we did it the normal way this year, is to see a report about a huge spike in cases.”